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Saturday, 23 May 2015
Land Rover Restored SERIES 3 88 SWB 3 1983 2286CC petrol 48284 miles NO RUST Chasis & Bulkhead completely rust proofed inside & out
Land Rover Restored SERIES 3 88 SWB 3 1983 2286CC petrol 48284 miles NO RUST
I have a complete specifications sheet available (as a PDF) for this car. It details much more than I can fit into an e-bay listing including many more photos. Please text me (at 07783 685 042) your email address and I will email you the PDF ASAP
I am semi retired and restore Landy's for a hobby, buying, rust proofing and renovating them and I also work to order, .I.E. you specify the model and colour of Landy and I obtain one to suit you, and then renovate it to whatever level; you require. My role is to restore the vehicle and set it up properly for the next 35 - 50 years of use. The job is done properly regardless of time or cost. They
However, these old Land Rovers are better suited to agricultural work than driving on a motorway.
My restoration principle is to restore the vehicle to original as much as possible using new parts built in the original way. I never buy used parts or panels unless they are major panels (such as a undamaged roof) in excellent condition. Corroded parts such as doors bottoms and door tops I replace with new. Rubber seals are replaced as necessary and that will be shown in the information below.
I re-use the original bolts and nuts as much as possible as this helps to maintain the cars original, genuine character. I only use stainless steel bolts in non critical areas. Exactly why automotive companies DON'T USE STAINLESS STEEL BOLTS is shown at the end of this listing
I normally drive the car I have just purchased home so I only buy cars I am sure are in generally sound condition. I then drive them around whilst working on them to get everything right. They normally travel 200 to 500 miles before I have completed it.
My experience of the car so far
I drove it 115 miles on the day I picked it up and it ran very strongly. I worked up the cruising speed from 45 to 65 mph so I could feel how it was performing at all speeds. Then I did the last stretch few hours at a steady 60 mph on the motorway. Although it will go quite a bit faster I prefer to stay a bit slower initially as naturally I don't have any replacement parts with me on the first journey. Once home and have had a chance to work it over from end to end I can then just drive at in the A & B road speeds
Chassis- This car has no visible rust in either the chassis or bulkhead and that's before I rust proofed it! It has had rust work in the past .....like every car I have ever worked on!
RUST - All old landy's seem to have rust even if you can't see it! - I CONVERT it and/or REMOVE IT.
I have pressured spray the inside of bulkhead and inside and outside the chassis using a solution of Phosphoric Acid. Phosphoric Acid converts iron oxide (rust) up to 10mm thick into Iron Phosphate! The 10mm depth of conversion is approximately 4 times thicker than the steel in the chassis and bulkhead. So, it is gone! If the rust is worse than surface rust, i.e. it creates a hole the rust cut out and new steel welded into place. Items such as outriggers etc are simply completely replaced. I tend to weld in thicker steel than I take out so it is stronger than new
When the rust becomes iron phosphate it forms a protective layer that cannot rust again. It is actually better galvanising! The converted protective layer can then be painted over as an inert stable surface.
We used to do this to vehicles and trailers used on the salt lakes in northern Australia (see the photos below to get an idea of what this treatment protects against. Google Dampier Salt to see what a salt field looks like)
New vehicles and trailers were scrapped after 3-4 years use on this level of salt. Then we started treating them with phosphoric acid.
Please note that if the rust is worse than surface rust, it part is replaced, either with a brand new part or is the rust cut out and new steel welded into place. I tend to weld in thicker steel than we take out so it is stronger than new
Chassis Photos! - Here are some current shots of the underneath.As you can see no sign of rust anywhere
As you can see no sign of rust anywhere
What I do to each vehicle (including this one) before delivery
I test each cylinders compression, checked the spark delivery and then tuned the engine. I put in a distributor overhaul kit and new spark plugs as called for. On this car I also
Rust proofed the chassis and bulkhead as described elsewhere in this spec sheet
Installed a new battery with 3 year warranty
Installed new keys and matching locks for all doors with key locks. Normally the driver's door and rear safari door. If the passenger door has a key lock that is also replaced. . If the passenger door is the common snib from the inside type lock as in this car, a key is not used
Tuned and tested the engine
Check the cooling system is working correctly and replace any components necessary.
Remove the small light fitting as they get corroded inside over years. I replace all of the indicator, stop lights and front side light fitting. I repainted the area under lights and then replaced them all with brand new fittings ready for the next 30+ years
Undertook any small repairs and replacements needed
Installed new checker plate protection panels on top of the wings.
Any work with a safety consideration such a brakes, steering and cutting out rust in a chassis etc I have undertaken by qualified local independent engineering shop who have much more specialist equipment than it pays me to have. It is also better for my insurance premiums!
I have been over the whole body and the paint was generally good but needed some fettling to make it exactly right. I had some paint exactly colour matched to the original and used this for the corrective work. The left over new paint will go with the car so you can do your own touch up work to the new scratches and marks you will make in the future. All you need to provide is a tiny school paint brush
The current colour is light blue and the tub mouldings are in Galvanised finish JUST AS THEY SHOULD BE.. The tub moulding were once painted but they are pretty clean now
The external and internal pain is excellent - See the photos
The inside is very normal and practical as its stands ,being painted in light blue. The front floor is carpeted and there is an insulation kit installed on the from firewall and side of the seat box.
The rear floor is blue with rubber matting in the load area.
See the photos.
Roof above drivers compartment. In the past this car had an insulation kit that someone has since removed. This was removed and someone HAS painted over the remaining fibrous material still glued to the roof. If it bothers you can either re-install an insulation kit or perhaps a head lining kit.
I do not normally add body filler! I prefer to paint over small imperfections leaving them visible. Land Rovers are subject to a lot of vibration and this can be really bad for filler which ends up cracking and even flaking and looking much worse that the small dents you are trying to cover up. It even falls out! If there is a bad dent, I replace the panel. I think a 30+ year old Land Rover should have small flaws. If it is too perfect it looks wrong. I think my Landy's are good looking honest cars that are properly overhauled and will run for years. However if someone has used filler in the past I leave it in place as obviously it is holding on well and it not clear what is behind it..
The engine number prefix is 361 meaning it is the last engine type used in Series vehicles by Land Rover and it is by far the very best type. It is a 4 cylinder petrol engine with 8:1 compression and 5 bearing instead of the earlier 3 bearing engine. It starts straight away and pulls strongly throughout a range of driving conditions, hills, motorways, A & B roads etc. It also Idles beautifully for a Landy. I have been told the car was serviced and had a distributor kit and new spark plugs installed just prior to the MOT
The odometer says 48284 at time of writing. Judging by the overall condition of the vehicle I think it might be the genuine original mileages - but - see my notes below. I have only ever had one old Landy with the mileage fully documented. That was at 67000 miles and this one is better than that!
Mileages. Unless I actually have documentary evidence going a very long way back I can't guarantee the mileage on any odometer is accurate. The clocks only go to 99999 miles and so if it trips over, it starts again from 0. Also, over 40 to 50 years the occasional clock can have been repaired or replaced.
When you are looking at old vehicles, the mileage is not so important. 4WD vehicle with too low a mileage can be subject to deterioration in the drive train and brake drums that won't occur in a higher mileage vehicle because the parts are used and lubricated. Also, parts may have been replaced in the higher mileage vehicle. It is the overall mechanicals and panel condition that needs to be considered.
MOT Expiry 20/02/2016 - So you know it is in excellent shape!
All 5 tyres are excellent with lots of tread. These will last this cars for many, many, years. They are Deestone Extra Traction 7.50-16 8 ply re-moulded tyres.
Wheels - the rims are superb having just been powder coated at a cost of £300.00
The brakes are excellent. The vehicle stops quickly and in a straight line, even under very, very hard emergency style braking
The steering is tight and straight for a land rover. Stops in a dead straight line when you brake, even when you brake really hard as I do to test it. This car has had the Land Rover steering wheel replaced with a smaller wheel that looks good and makes driving so much easier and more precise. You can have a Land Rover wheel reinstalled but I strongly recommend you drive it with this steering wheel as it is a many, many times better driving experience.
The gearbox is exceptionally good. Absolutely firm with good positive and easy change with good movement and no strange noises. It is tested in all gears and drive configurations for the MOT and so you know it is good.
Drive Train and Suspension
The MOT TEST checks the drive train in 2WD, 4WD, and High and Low ranges and it passed with flying colours so you know it is good. The drive train is solid and normal throughout driving solidly down the road.
This sympathetic restoration includes
new battery with 3 year warranty
freewheeling hubs that work
new keys and matching locks f
New deluxe seats (3 of) in the front that are colour coded to the blue of the car.
The paint on the inside of the car matches the outside of the car. Doors insides are light blue and the inside roof and sides colour is sandstone matching the outside roof and sides.
Interior sound deadening kit on bulkhead and seat fronts - recently installed
Carpet on front floor and rubber matting installed in rear load area- recently installed
Only 11 owners from new! This car is a real keeper!
5 excellent matching tyres with substantial tread
New spare wheel cover
I have supplied a free spares kit with this car comprising of
set of spare heater hoses
New radiator cap (fitted)
New expansion tank cap, (fitted)
new fuel tank cap (fitted)
6 new spare bulbs , as follows; indicators (2) brake lights (2) front side lights (2). (a sensible precaution and are mandatory if travelling to Europe)
Full set of 4 x 35amp barrel fuses (a complete set for a series)
New spare fan belt
You also get the old items I have replaced as they were working but had been used
These all fit in the commodious tool box under the passenger seat
Other good points
VALUE of these is going up fast. In my experience they have zoomed upwards in the past 12-18 months. I think as the economy improves they will continue to strongly increase in value
NO RUST - In the chassis and bulkhead - you can see the photos
only 11 owners since new! It's obviously never been a lemon and I don't think it is now either
Registration mark, this old style plate number can be sold. I haven't had that valued yet and you would need to write to the DVLA to get permission first That takes about 2-3 weeks but so far they have never yet said no to me to having any of these very old plates being transferred.
Seat belts on either side are recently added inertia reel and ;lap sash in the middle
No overdrive to go scream as you drive and go wrong. I really try to avoid buying car with an overdrive. The more common overdrives can be awkward to use, troublesome to maintain and really don't make much of a practical difference for people. Most of us use these cars as second cars on A & B roads near home. You just don't use overdrive in that situation. If you want to use the Landy a lot, it is better to add a 4 cyl LPG conversion for £720.00. I had a telephone quote for the this size engine from a place near Liverpool. This really pays as LPG 59.9p per litre right now on my high performance super luxury, LWB Mercedes S500. It is just so cheap and lots more fun than one of those economy tin boxes that my girl friend drives. I can't actually travel far in her car as my legs don't fit without jamming them in!
Using LPG is cheaper to fit than an overdrive, saves a heck of a lot more money than an overdrive and doesn't deafen you. At that price, you would save 50p per litre, or £2.25 per gallon and you would re-fill about 10 gallons per tank of petrol. That means it will have paid for itself in 32 refills and after that you save bundles. So it depends on how much you intend to drive as to how long it takes to save the cost of installation. A tank a week and you would break even in only 7.5 months! (approximately)
I really can't think of any - and I am reasonably picky !
This is a great car that is runs brilliantly This car starts quickly, even when dead cold, and runs strongly with no overheating, hesitancy or misfiring. It has a gearbox with a fluid but precise gear change action.
Steering is excellent (by Series standards), good ride and none of the common transmission backlash etc. There really is nothing to criticise, and it's up there with the best Series I or you will have ever driven.
I have driven it over 220 miles includes 125 on motorways and the rest in stop start local small trips and everything works perfectly. The steering is tight and it drives straight, stops quickly and straight, gearbox is firm, gear change is easy and doesn't grate, and, the engine runs and idles exactly as it should. Takes a full tank without fumes or dripping so no leaks or split hoses there.
Stainless Steel sheer rating and vibration problems
Why not use Stainless steel bolts in a car? Mercedes, Ford and other auto manufacturers don't use stainless steel in cars because this is a soft and weak alloy material and instead they use high tensile steel. Stainless steel has a very low sheer strength rating that can be a disaster in auto accidents. To put in simply the panels etc can shear straight through a stainless steel bolt whereas they can't sheer through a high tensile bolt, hence their use in automobiles.
Also, vibration causes stainless steel bolts and nuts to work loose (although using modern locking nuts helps) and the parts then can come loose and/or cease to function.
Pricing on the vehicle is as follows
Price in current condition as described in the specifications sheet and to be
verified by buyer inspection prior to delivery £4995.00
PAYMENT CASH ON COLLECTION